Sores on skin
Question: I have just purchased a grey Section A for my children to ride. She seems to have an area the size of a tennis ball on her side, which she keeps biting. After a closer look I can see small round sores which are sticky to the touch? Any idea of what this could be and the best method of treatment?
HHG: Skin problems are normally caused by a build up of dirt or scurf, an allergic reaction (change of food, change of bedding, washing powder on rugs etc) or biting by insects, mites or lice. Once the reaction starts, whatever it is caused by, it is itchy and continuing to scratch it (or bite at it if you do not have fingers) makes it worse. You can try to tell this to your pony but I doubt if she will listen!
It is difficult to identify the cause or solution (and impossible without seeing it) so I suggest that you get it looked at by your vet who can take a skin scrape if the cause is not obvious. My general guideline is that if the lump (or anything else) was on me (or my child), what would I do and if the answer is see the doctor, then it is time to call the vet.
In the meantime, if you have other horses and ponies it would be sensible to keep all grooming kit and rugs for the pony with the sore, separate in case the problem can be spread and also to make sure that your children are extra careful about washing their hands after playing with the pony.
Flying changes without being asked
Question: My 14 year old horse has taken to changing the canter lead without being asked lately. He does it when cantering to the left, he will change lead (a flying change) and canter to the right. I do not ride him often because of my bad health, but his usual rider told me that he started doing this some months ago.
I rode him myself last week, and he did the same to me. We cantered to the right without problems, then when we started cantering to the left the same problem arose. At first he cantered beautifully, then after the corner he became tense and either changed lead or fell into trot. I tried riding him forward, long and low, and finally when I could canter left past the corner twice, I left it at that. My question is, can this be due to a physical problem? Or is it just a problem of training?
HHG: There are several reasons why your horse has started to change canter lead without being asked, particularly when the changes occur on one lead only. The problem may well be physical, so the first things to do are to check that the tack fits (even mature horses change shape, especially when there is a change in season, work load or diet), get specialists to check that there are no problems with your horse’s back, neck, teeth and feet (unlevel shoeing can cause a lot of problems). If all of these things are found to be alright then the next check is the rider.
Horses are very sensitive – they can feel a fly walking on their skin, so a rider who sits just slightly to one side or who puts a bit more weight in one stirrup than the other can be unwittingly giving their horse a cue to change lead. An indication that his is the problem would be to see whether he changes lead when working on the lunge, long reins or when being loose schooled?
If there is the least doubt that it may be a rider problem, I suggest that you get a good instructor to watch your horse ridden and see whether he is actually doing what he is being asked (even if no-one realised he was being asked!). A good lunge lesson (have a look at the video of Joseph Murphy working on the lunge) may help.
Problem with the contact
Question: I have a lovely little 14.2hh mare who I've owned for two years now and is 6. She has turned out to be a bit of a superstar in dressage. However, we have now moved up to competing at Novice level and as such, she needs to be more accepting of the bit. She can carry herself and often feels like she is working through but then, she will drop behind or above the bit and hollow. If I get one more judges comment about "needs to be more accepting of the contact" I think I will scream! Please, anyone, tips and advice very gratefully received.
HHG: One method is to use flexion and counter flexion in your training, as you are not trying to force her to work to a fixed and rigid contact and can keeping everything flexible and forward going.
The important thing to remember the contact is two-way, and that it is your hands that are holding the bit you want your pony to accept. Your pony is far more likely to accept a contact if it is soft, elastic and steady. If your pony is evading contact by dropping behind or above the bit then she is looking for any way she can to lose it, so you have to teach her to keep the contact by making it the most comfortable way for her to work!
Kineton noseband
Question: Has anyone got any experience of using a Kineton noseband? I have a horse which goes softly and on a very light contact in a filet baucher/hanging snaffle with a rotating central lozenge - most of the time. BUT when the mood takes him he takes off, ignoring all aids and pleasing himself. I was wondering whether a Kineton might be the solution as it should only come into play when it's needed?
HHG: A Kineton noseband works by taking some pressure off the bit and putting it on the nose. Because of the way it is positioned the pressure is applied over the softer part of the nose. I am not sure that I agree with you when you say that it only comes into use when required – any movement of the bit is going to cause it to apply some nasal pressure. A Worcester noseband is more like a cavesson but is attached to the bit so applies pressure to the nose but further up making it slightly less severe.
You say that your horse sometimes takes off ignoring all aids. I am not sure that you mean that he bolts with you or just that he decides he has had enough and does as he pleases – in either case, I suggest you have a look at a few Horse Hero videos such as "Jason Webb re-trains Angelo who bolts" and "Training for relaxation with Shane Borland", both of which can give you some good ideas for sorting out your problems without otherwise resorting to what can be a strong piece of tack.
Evasions with a young horse
Question: I'm three months into a new partnership with a young horse (who’s 5). He's been great hacking out in company (first or last). He's less keen on schooling and has over the last month or so, increased his napping repertoire. I've put this down to testing the boundaries and we are working through things without too much confrontation.
I've also been doing the Richard Maxwell ground work exercises, although I admit to being a little stop/start with this as I like to take him out hacking and don't want to spend too much time in the school. We've had some success with the groundwork, although I think it’s fair to say he's got his own opinions and gets very angry when I successfully manage to control his feet. Even then, there isn't much sign of submissive behaviour. Definitely more work needed as we are not at the stage where he's consistently responding to my requests - each sessions starts as a re-education - like we'd never done it before and I'm guessing success is when I can start doing the exercises and he's listening and co-operating straight away?
I find the circling work difficult as he will occasionally runs at me (sometimes throwing a hoof in my direction), particularly on one rein - the right. To get him turning right, I sometimes need to move into more of a 'driving' position to physically send him in the right direction.
I have been advised I might be better off long lining as I will have more control and he's way more consistent and obliging, but I guess that to me feels like a cop out.
Any schooling issues have never translated to our hacking - until now! Today he stopped when in front a couple of times and started reversing down the road. My hunch is I need to crack this circling work (on one rein) and forgo the hacking. Any thoughts?
HHG: The most worrying thing here is that the napping is now taking place while hacking which, as I read it, you have both enjoyed up until now.
You say that he does not enjoy schooling and naps in the school. Is this when you ask him to do something he considers difficult or when he gets bored of going round and round in circles?
When you are working on his groundwork you say that each session you have to start from scratch although he doesn’t particularly like working on the right rein – and is also happy to try to run at you and try to kick at you.
My first thought would be to check that there are no physical problems – have you had his back, teeth and saddle checked? A back or tooth problem would not help his one-sidedness and would make him less than happy to work in the school where he is being asked to work on circles. Out hacking (straight lines) would be more comfortable for him and less likely to object to what he is being asked to do.
Assuming that there is no obvious physical problem that would cause this behaviour, the next thing to consider is his size and physical maturity. He is five – in some breed of horse this is mature, in others it is not. The bigger he is the less likely it is that he will be able to do work in the school easily – circles are difficult, as are transitions when there is not room for him to get himself coordinated. That will mean that all he is really learning is how to avoid doing what you are asking and instead is learning how to nap, buck or whatever. If this is the case then take him in to larger spaces (yes, hacking is ideal) and help him to build up the muscle and skeletal strength he needs to do more accurate work in the school – lots of hills. You can school whilst out hacking – select a patch of grass and aim to change pace at exactly that spot, try leg yielding from side to side across the road. He will learn to respond to your aids almost without realizing it.
The groundwork lessons are important – your horse needs to respect you and you need to be safe when working with him in any situation – including when you are on your feet. If you feel nervous because he is likely to run at you when you are trying rope circling, then do something that you feel safe with – long reining is great – the whole process is about your horse learning that you are the one who decides where, when and how fast and certainly that you are not to be run at, over or kicked.
You seem to be taking advice from a lot of people – it sounds to me that it is not just your horse losing confidence, more you. There is always a problem with asking lots of people for help – you normally end up getting lots of different (often contradictory) advice which confuses you and your horse even more. It may be a good idea to get someone you respect to come and give you and your horse a lesson so that they can watch and see if they can help identify and solve your problems.